VIN + OMI ANARCHY

Fashion, art, music and sustainability came together at VIN + OMI’s latest London Fashion Week show, ANARCHY, presented on Sunday 13 September 2026 at art’otel London Hoxton.

For VIN + OMI, the show was about much more than presenting a new collection. ANARCHY explored the different meanings of speaking up, from thoughts and actions to social movements, while using fashion as a platform to demonstrate new approaches to working with waste.

Sustainability has been at the centre of VIN + OMI’s practice for many years. Rather than producing conventional fashion collections for retail, the designers use their shows to demonstrate what can be achieved when waste materials are approached as creative resources.

ANARCHY continued that work, bringing together recycled and reclaimed materials, experimental textiles, students, artists, musicians and collaborators to create a show that questioned how fashion can be made differently.

A defining feature of VIN + OMI’s work is their use of materials that would ordinarily be considered waste.

For ANARCHY, this included a wide range of unusual sources. Their ongoing collaboration with King Charles III continued with garments made using cork oak bark combined with nettle fibres, creating a distinctive cream-coloured textile.

The show also incorporated materials recovered through Operation Fly Swat (OFS), a VIN + OMI initiative focused on waste that is difficult to clear through conventional local authority collections. Through their AV+O collection truck, waste is collected from areas around the country and then processed using creative recycling methods. Some of these recovered materials were transformed into textiles and incorporated into garments for the catwalk.

The aim is not simply to make clothing from recycled materials, but to demonstrate what could be possible if waste streams were approached differently.

This philosophy was also reflected in a collaboration with felt artist Joanna Jompan, a Northern Sámi artist from Finnish Lapland. Joanna worked with eco-dyed UK nettle fibres and Finnish no-kill fleece, felting the raw materials together in her studio in Lapland to create collars for recycled jackets.

Each collaboration adds another perspective on what sustainable fashion can look like, bringing together different materials, techniques and creative disciplines.

Daler-Rowney materials also formed part of the collection’s wider story of reuse.

Recycled Daler-Rowney paint tubes were processed into textile and used for printed outfits within the show. It is a continuation of the collaboration between VIN + OMI and Daler-Rowney, which has explored ways of taking materials from the art world and finding new applications for them within fashion.

For selected garments, shoes and other textile pieces, System3 Screen Printing Inks were used to create the designs. System3 Acrylic and FW Inks were also used to paint selected clothing and shoes, while Daler-Rowney Mountboard was used to create elements of the set and accessories.

The materials became part of the wider making process rather than simply being applied as decoration. Print, paint and construction were used alongside recycled textiles and reclaimed materials to create individual pieces for the show.

This is central to the way VIN + OMI work with Daler-Rowney: exploring what can happen when materials are taken outside their expected use and incorporated into experimental fashion and installation.

Education and collaboration are also important parts of VIN + OMI’s approach.

For ANARCHY, students from the Oxford Brookes University Foundation Art & Design course were involved in the project, working alongside VIN + OMI as part of the preparation and creative production behind the show.

The Foundation Art & Design course provides students with the opportunity to explore a broad range of creative disciplines before progressing into specialist study. This can include areas such as fine art, fashion, textiles, photography and design, allowing students to develop practical skills while exploring different approaches to creative problem-solving.

Working on a live fashion show allows students to take those skills outside the classroom. Instead of working solely to an academic brief, they can experience the practical demands of a professional creative production, including collaboration, experimentation, making and working towards a fixed event.

The students were supported by Amy Harris, teacher on the Oxford Brookes University Foundation Art & Design course. Her involvement helped connect the students’ studies with VIN + OMI’s wider creative practice, giving them the opportunity to work alongside practising designers and contribute to a real London Fashion Week production.

Projects such as ANARCHY can also show students how transferable their creative skills can be. Materials, drawing, painting, textiles, construction and visual communication can all have a role in fashion, set design, installation and other areas of the creative industries.

ANARCHY was not only about the clothes.

The show opened with a collaborative video created by VIN + OMI and legendary Queen drummer Roger Taylor for his new single, A Beautiful World, from his album Violence Insane in a Beautiful World. Dancers also performed to the track during the show.

Music formed part of the show’s wider message. VIN + OMI highlighted the history of disco and the importance of spaces where Black, Latino and LGBTQ+ communities could come together to dance, find connection and escape discrimination.

That idea of finding a voice ran throughout ANARCHY. The show’s title was deliberately open to interpretation, with VIN + OMI presenting anarchy as thoughts, actions and movements, and as a way of speaking up.

The catwalk brought together designers, students, artists, musicians, models and friends, with familiar faces including Dame Prue Leith and Alison Hammond, alongside Loose Women’s Jane Moore, Jo Wood, Kyle De’Volle and members of The Entitled Sons.

Several of the garments worn on the catwalk were created from textiles made using recycled plastics recovered through VIN + OMI’s waste clean-up schemes, further connecting the show’s cast with its environmental message.

VIN + OMI do not retail the clothing created for their shows. Instead, their fashion presentations act as a platform for experimentation and demonstration, showing how waste materials can be processed, combined and turned into something with a new purpose.

That approach makes each show more than a traditional fashion presentation. It becomes an opportunity to test materials, work with different creative disciplines and demonstrate possibilities that could influence how we think about waste and fashion.

ANARCHY brought all of those ideas together. Reclaimed waste, experimental textiles, art materials, music, performance and education became part of one production, with students working alongside established creatives and collaborators.

At its heart, the show was about questioning what is considered waste, what fashion can be made from and what happens when creative people are given the freedom to approach those questions differently. VIN + OMI continue to use their platform to demonstrate that sustainable fashion can be experimental, collaborative and visually ambitious, while encouraging audiences to think differently about the materials that surround us.

Find out more about VIN + OMI: https://www.vinandomi.com/